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2in Rear Lift

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I may be getting a bit repetitve here but i have a few specific questions please.

I'm sick of having dramas connecting my camper trailer to my fronty as it's too low and rather than modify the trailer it sounds like a good excuse to lift the rear end 2 inches. i already have OME shocks but not sure if they are suitable for 2in lift, they were in it when i bought it about 60000k ago so it might get new ones anyway. can i use the number on them to double check? also i see someone mentioned OME 913 Coils, how much lift will these give? i dont know if i trust my local ARB so if i ring them and order 913 coils will they know what I'm talking about?

I'm not set on OME so if anyone else has any suggestions let me know.

Just going to wind the front up once the rear is sorted.

Cheers guys

for sale: 4JX1 parts

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I bought another Jackaroo on Saturday for an engine conversion, '98 4JX1 with diesel in the radiator...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=251035977266&si=FV6eIvZWiguCPX2SUnhJOVgmpSE%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AAU%3A1123&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

only engine parts are for sale atm...
the gearbox will be for sale after I remove it, as will the remainder of the engine

a 4JG2 is going into it, so I don't need much of what's under that bonnet

so yea... intercooler, turbo, computer, glow plugs, anything computery, pulleys, belts... hell just name it, point it out with a photo or something, and I'll give a price and get it off it

btw, I'm in St Lucia, Brisbane if you want to pick parts up

1998 Jackaroo Keyless Entry

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So, armed with the false information that 'all 1998-onwards Jackaroo SE had keyless entry' I ordered a remote fob from America (Isuzu Trooper). It arrived today, but I couldn't get my car into 'programming mode' to program it to the remote. I called holden, and asked them to look up the options for my car (from the VIN) and it states that my car never actually had keyless entry.

 

I then went to the wreckers and looked at a 2000 Monterey and a 2003 Jackaroo Equipe, and also confirmed that the two cars there didn't have it either.

 

My question is, does your Jackaroo have keyless entry? If so, do you know where in the car the keyless entry module is? Based on (very) rough diagrams from Holden, it appears that it should be behind the dash, just above the drivers side kick panel.

 

If someone can confirm its location, I can go and track one down, then retrofit it into my car.

 

My jackaroo is already a 'bits' or 'mongrel' having the woodgrain from a monterey installed in it, the barometer/compass from another monterey installed in it, and the complete locks/ignition barrel/ECU/alarm from a 2003 Monterey..

 

Any help with the location or any other information on the keyless entry system will be appreciated.

cant find air leak

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4jx1 replaced manifold gasket yesterday thinking it would solve my problem. Wrong Fair enough it took the map sensor code out of the trouble codes but I still have an audible air leak around that area. My other two codes are intake throttle position sensor and rail pressure sensor. Not sure where that second one is. Anyway the symptoms are bad idle and stalling, check engine light and audible air leak. funny thing is stick the right foot in it and it all goes away for a bit and the air leak changes tone. 1 min later same thing. Ive checked all hoses I can find and blown out the egr. Any suggestions would be appreciated and I would like to know where to find rail pressure sensor. Cheers

Rodeo 2008 RA7 side step rear bracket

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Hi there,

Just wondering if anyone is familiar with fitting the factory standard side steps on an RA7.

I bought a second hand set for my 2008 Rodeo but I find that the rear brackets don't seem to line up with the holes on the body mount.

The front and centre brackets fit OK.

I suspect I may have bought a set thats for the previous model Rodeo.

You can see in the photo's I've attached that the centre bracket is OK but the rear bracket although lines up with the body mount does not line up with the holes for the bolts.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • centre_bracket.jpg
  • rear_bracket.jpg

New user, Chasing Frontera front bar?

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Hey,

 

My names Shaun, I'm from sydney. 

 

I own a 99 Holden Frontera which is a little different to what you guys are used to.

 

Has all the B's. Big motor, Big rims, Bagged and Body dropped.

 

What I am chasing a front bar for the 01-03 Fronteras with the round fog light holes? Surely all you guys with bull bars, someone may have an old bar lying around they would like to get rid of?

 

Let me know.

 

-Shaun.

 

Shaun Engine.jpg

 

Shaunstruck.jpg

3.5 v6 exhaust headers

hid conversion kit

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hi all

 

 just put hid kit in my jack best thing ever done but the problem is now my driving lights aren't working has anyone else had this problem and what did u do to get the driving lights working.

 

regards

shane


2000 Jackaroo 4jx1 intermitant engine cut out

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G'Day all,

 

On my second Jackaroo 3.0lt TD, well the wife is. The first (2000 model) run like a champ no issues at all for four years, wife goes to the shop, comes back 5 mins later with a funny smell, opened the bonnet, engine bay caught on fire and the Jack was a burnt out shell in 20 mins. 

 

Not deterred, as the wifey loves to drive them, got another 2000 3.0 lt Jack 60,000 on the clock and away we went. Another 7 years without a problem, done the servicing's myself only two mind you and one by a mechanic. Only ever used rimula x..didn't know about the 5/10 - 30/40 until mechanic said I was using the wrong oil. Although the Jack never missed a beat with the new oil it seemed to loose a bit of power towing.

 

Well after 7 years of trouble free driving the dreaded diesel in the radiator and thanks to some good info on this site replaced all the seals myself ($320) from holden. (On a side note after getting the seals I measured each one and purchased the whole set in Viton for $38)

 

After the seals were done, all back together, cranked over say 10-20 times, fired up and was like it was before purring like a Jack should. Drove around for a while probably 500k's and noticed a whole in the exhaust manifold gasket. Pulled her off, replaced the gasket (hardest one I have ever tackled) and away she went purring like a jack should.

 

The Jack is more of a second car so doesn't get driven every day, I work on a FIFO in PNG so only drive when back for two weeks break then sits around for 4 weeks (wife upgraded to a Chrysler so I get the Jack ""winner").

 

Anyway, Jump in the other day, all good, 5-10 mins, driving along, slight surge (millisecond) instant power loss 1/2 second then fine. get to town slow down to go round a corner, engine stops, quickly into neutral, restarts straight away.

 

This happens every drive and is randomly intermittent. When idling just stops the same as if the ignition is turned off, when at speed (any speed) the same thing only because of the speed/engine RPM recovers in a second. There is no smoke no puffs, spluttering surging or anything abnormal. Oil pressure sits just on the 6 on the gauge above 1200 rpm goes between 4-6 below.

 

Today had the top off checked all previous work, connectors, orps, harness all good. Removed ORPV on the pump all good, pulled throttle body off cleaned appeared good. Fuel drained no water, filter changed, primed well and after all put back together primed fuel, 10-20 cranks and away she went. went for a drive and the same thing

 

This has be buggered, I have sat looking at the gauges waiting for it to conk and none fluctuate when stationary.The RPM goes up just a tad before going down when at speed..

 

Any gurus have any ideas????? I am thinking elec/fuel but don't know enough about the system...

 

Appreciate any feedback

 

Dixi

Who is happy with their 4JX1

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Okay, just out of curiosity, I am interested to see how many owners of the 4JX1, like me, are happy with their unit.

Also have you had major dramas?? By this I mean big $$$ (injectors, RPS, looms, heads etc). If you have can you elabourate??

Just trying to get an indication of how many units are out there vs ones with probs...

Tachometer not working after engine swap

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Just completed engine swap from 4jx1 to 4jg2 with no regrets at all. After many documented problems happening over the years did the swap. Extremely happy with end result, with no loss of perceived performance. Has anyone fixed the problem of no tachometer, all other gauges working. I have heard of Dakota digital interface DSL1. Has anyone used this interface or other brands? Does it hook up to the original gauge in the dash? Any info greatly appreciated. Cheers Pepsjackaroo

4JB1 turbo intercooler into 2000 JACKAROO !!

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Get ready,focus your eyes clean your glasses and prepare for the drool !!.......ok ok how bout I just say the jack is at the auto electricians and will "hopefully" be driveable next week.

 

Its been a long costly project but the '01 RODEO 2.8 turbo is in,the jack oil filler tube and dipstick are fitted,the jack turbo is bolted on via a custom adapter,the jack oil cooler bolted straight on and so did the gearbox and DMF and clutch,the rodeo accellerator cable has been modded and it fits up nicely and finally the jack intercooler brackets have been customised and custom piping made so the 3.0 intercooler can sit nicely on top of it all!!....

 

I got pics galore.I got details galore and once the auto electrician takes the last of my thousands I'll start posting....I don't want to post till it going or some one could have the troubles i had based on instructions from another forum - they helped but it was costly in money and the mistakes in them.

 

Cheers

dodgyjack :) 

 

p.s.I have to acknowledge that I'm computer illiterate and I need my girlfriend to help me upload pics!! 

Dual cab canopy

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Hi. I'm after a dual cab canopy for a 2008 model rodeo, preferably in white. Ive got a genuine holden hard lid in white which im happy to sell, trade etc if anyone is interested.

Send me a pm if interested.

Cheers
Rob

Isuzu Dmax whistling noise

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Hello everyone

 

I have a 2004 Isuzu Dmax, with 4JH1 TC engine. Since two days, I started hearing what seems to be the turbo whistling,as from 1000 rpm. it is not loud, just audible. It did not make that noise before (it now has 129 000 km on the clock) and the turbo was audible only after 1500 rpm during accelerations

 

I am quite worried as turbo issues can be costly; is this normal or is there some kind of leak somewhere?

 

Thank you!

 

 

have a rattle noise only when driving, and im a newbie

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hi every one, i am new to the jackaroo scene,i have a 2001 SE 3.5 v6 auto....not a bad bus...ok have a couple questions 1st now i only seem to here this when driving i here a rattling noise coming from somewhere under neath i dont know if its in motor or something else within the driveline,i can have it sitting in park or nuetral and give it some revs no noise,but put it in drive and off i go there is that rattling noise,so seems to be when under load...any ideas of what it could be before im of to the mechanics........the other issue which has happend a couple times is error code p1171 lean fuel under acceleration,i have read a few other posts on this one so im working my way around that one....main concern is the rattle apart from that it goes pretty good....any advice would be appreciated... thankyou...

To smoke or not to smoke......

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Hi all, I have a question for you learned folk out there.. I have just had a new (second hand) motor put into Jack ,my toil and tribulations can be viewed in "No oil pressure but starting fine". Had a few dramas with it being a bit smokey so took it back to the mechanic who put new injectors, seals etc and replaced the wiring harness with the old one from the dead motor .Sent it to holden who "apparently" re zapped the ECU and fine  tuned it. Now got it back so quiet and responsive but lets a bit of smoke go on start up only for about 3 secs or so. Now smoke doesnt plume and disperses quiet quickly so not a huge prob but just curious if there is a bit of over fueling at start up due to running a bit rich or shoul I expect a bit of smoke..... Cheers Big Ears.......

Jackaroo cylinder head removal

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Hi all,

I have just started taking a 4jx1 3.0TD motor apart as I suspect it needs the injector sleeve o- rings done and the head gasket is pretty suspect so I'm going to do that at the same time. I did have a manual on disc but I can't find it anywhere :( So far I have got the cam carrier off and am just about to remove the manifolds and then I am a little stuck.

1) Can anybody please tell me the correct sequence for undoing and redoing the head bolts?
2) If you happen to know the torque settings for refitting aswell, that would be fantastic :)
3) Are there any major pitfalls I need to be looking out for during the process?
4) Can anyone recommend a good head reconditioner in the Perth area?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

HJ

for sale: 6VE1 and 4L30e + parts

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98 6ve1-  good condition, 200,000km's - $300
4L30e - stuffed - spat it's teeth i think - $10 or a good story
ecu,

immobiliser,

all relevant cabling, $5

cat converter, $20

2 1/4" cat back exhaust with tri flow muffler and a hotdog between cat and muffler, $70
petrol fuel tank, $30
3/4 full (60ish litres) of 98 octane petrol - $20 (ph34r.png 0.33c/L ) *has  been sitting since september last year*
brake controller, $5

 

IHI RHF5 Turbo Rebuild

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Hello to everyone.

I got quite a bit of useful info from this forum and just wanted to give something back. So thanks to all you posters down-under and everywhere else.

 

According to manufacturer instructions in the workshop manual under the 4JX1 engine, a routine tolerance inspection must be done to the turbo unit (though they don’t state how often) in case you suspect a problem with the unit. See below the relevant page in the manual:

image002.jpg

As mentioned in the page above, if tolerances exceed the limit value, the turbo is to be sent to IHI for “major” maintenance in order to avoid damage that may occur to the turbine blades which may subsequently lead to engine damage.

At this stage I would just like to mention that the task at hand requires a fair degree of proficiency. I have no wish to deter any of you, and I’m guessing that each of you has a good bearing weather you’re up to it. Mind you that a turbo spins at fantastic speeds (150,000 RPM and more) and a slight misbalance can cause damage.

That said, I am not the first (or last) nutter who has done this job with no major issues and if you’ve done your fair share of greasing your elbows (god knows, if you have a Jack you have) then there should be nothing stopping you from proceeding. Having your turbo rebuilt in a shop is far from cheap…

FYI, I never recommend procedures that I have not tested on my own car. I have done this rebuild on Sep-2012 and have driven about 10,000 km since with no ill effects.

Before we begin I recommend dismantling the black plastic intake pipe going from the air filter to the turbo, now grab the nut holding the turbine blades and try to wiggle it from side-to-side and in-and-out, if it feels loose maintenance is probably in order. You can also take off the rubber pipe going from the turbo to the intercooler and check if you have oil in the intercooler. Mind you that if you do it may also (and more probably) be from the rocker lid vent. In any case, the idea is to make sure rebuilding the turbo is necessary before taking it all apart.

So let’s go…

 

First thing we have to do is take out the turbo unit.

1. Remove the intercooler and cover it’s openings to avoid dirt getting in

image004.jpg

 

2. Cover the turbo exit pipe and remove the heat shield (it’s held by 4 screws, I have only 2)

image006.jpg

 

3. Take out the heat shield (probably better to do step 4 first but not a must)

image008.jpg

 

4. Remove the intercooler support (2 screws)

image010.jpg

 

5. Remove the black intake pipe leading from the air filter to the turbo

6. Cover the turbo intake port and the intake pipe to the manifold

Note: I find it best to use plastic bags since they leave no fibers

image012.jpg

 

7. Remove the turbo coolant input (in red) and cap the ends to avoid leaks

8. Dismantle the input oil banjo (in green)

image014.jpg

 

The job gets a bit tricky here due to limited finger & tool access

9. Get a socket wrench in there and loosen the two bolts holding the oil drain (marked in green) this will later enable access to one of the nuts holding the turbo unit marked in red. I recommend not removing the drain at this stage, just loosen the bolts

image016.jpg

 

10. Now remove the 4 nuts connecting the exhaust housing to the turbo. I went ahead and removed all 4 double sided bolts as well in order to get the exhaust housing out of the way

image018.jpg

 

11. Instead of removing the exhaust housing, I simply moved it out of the way as shown in the following 2 images

image020.jpg

 

image022.jpg

Question for those with factory spotlights (lower front bumper) on Holden Jackaroo/Monterey 1998-2003

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Some of you might have seen the thread on my Jackaroo which started life as a fairly low optioned 1998 Jackaroo SE... Since then its had all monterey options fitted to it (except leather seats which are coming, and the headlight washing system) fitted by myself.

 

Now, the question I have is this.. My car also didn't come with the factory spotlights in the lower front bumper. I figured I would put something better on the car, but want to use the standard switch that is on the dash near the light dimmer switch. Can someone with the factory lights tell me the pinouts for that switch? Even if you can just pull it out and snap a photo, the wire colours might help me track it down.

 

I want to rig up an LED light bar or similar, have it trigger when using high beams, but be able to switch if off completely with the dash switch (for legal reasons). I am capable of the wiring, but if i knew the pinout of the factory switch, it would look better than some aftermarket switch.

 

Thanks in advance,

wishie

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