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My (old) New Rodeo...The build continues

April 26, 2015, 7:57 pm
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[ADMIN EDIT] Due to an issue in the forum software a few weeks ago, the beginning of this thread has vanished.  You can read the OP at the following link  http://4x4galore.com/blogpage.php?postid=49572&page=3751.  Sorry for the hiccup.  Jack 

 

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the comments, Rev, I'd be happy to swap info...drop me a message...

It's been a while, and it's about time for an update...I got the wheel carrier done to a point of testing and have used it for 1 highway trip away. It needs the arm to be shortened and a little bit of extra bracing before I will be comfortable taking it offload, but the idea works pretty well. Here are some pics to where it's at now...

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I have also upgraded to a set of 265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT's. Initial impressions are very good. They are quieter on the road than the HT's that were on there when I got it, and the on road grip is exceptional in both dry and wet. I haven't had them offload yet, but all the reviews I have read rate them as a capable offload all rounder. While it was in, I had the torsion bars wound up an inch to bring the front up to level with the back. Here she is with the new setup.
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I have also started work on a drawer for our tent, so we can load up on top of it but still get the tent set up before we unload everything else. As I am on a tight budget, the timber came for a very large shipping crate I picked up free on gumtree. And the ally for the runners came from a patio I picked up free on Gumtree and turned into a shed. The wheels for the runners were $3 each from our local salvage. I am covering it with remnants of industrial grade carpet. The most expensive part is the ally roadcase edging and hardware for $170 (I work for a production company and get it at cost). Carpet and edging will be going on later today. Here are the pics to date...
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That's where I'm at at the moment...what do you guys think?
Hopefully it won't be 6 months before my next update tongue.png

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4xj1 injector sleeve puller

April 26, 2015, 9:51 pm
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Hi guys
I need a 4xj1 injector sleeve puller!! If you have one for sale or for me to borrow in exchange for a slab :) I would much appreciate it.
thanks
jay
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Cold Starting after coughing big black smoke cloud

April 27, 2015, 1:44 am
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Hi there . Thanks for all the help so far.
My 2002 3.0lt Nullabor . I replaced Orps last year and I replaced the alternator 2 weeks ago . It is now difficult to start of a morning and coughs a large cloud of black smoke when it does .... I have also heard the turbo change tone today .... Any ideas where I should start . The engine light came on briefly last week during a short drive but has stayed off since
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Rear main seal installation tool in brisbane?

April 28, 2015, 12:26 am
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Hey guys, getting a new clutch (exedy) and in the process installing a new rear main seal...

 

Is there anyone in the brisbane area who has a tool who is willing to lend themselves + tool, or the tool for a day so i can get it installed? Its being done in a shop, im not actually doing it myself, its being done by SAAB automotive in Everton Hills. They have all the right equipment, apart from this bloody installation tool.

 

They have already gone through one seal learning how NOT to do it.. haha

 

So yes, if anyone in the next day or two can lend us the tool with you attached if you like (will pay you in cash or beer) to install it? Going camping this weekend with the relatives, and want to get it all back together by thursday. Its surrounded by SAABs and i dont want it to catch anything.. else! It already needs new sleeve seals *grumble grumble*

 

 

Thanks girls and guys!

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4JJ1 Oil Leak

April 28, 2015, 1:21 am
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Hello,

Im wondering can anyone enlighten me as to where this oil leak is coming from

its a 4JJ1 motor from the left hand side of engine underneath the air conditioner compressor

i took the battery out to make it easier to take the photos 

Cheers 

 

Having trouble uploading photo

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Jackaroo Deisel Performance Issue.

April 28, 2015, 6:16 am
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Hi All,

    I am new to this Forum, but after looking at all the posts here about different jackaroo issues, I hope you guys maight be able to help.

I have a 1989 4Jx1 3.0 TDI with 210,000km and it is also running on Gas. The car has recently become quite gutless where it is sluggish and un responsive at the top end (especially when approaching even small hills) It has always been serviced regulary and the major services has been done. The car runs quite smooth with no sputtering or misfire just lacking top end power. The Turbo was my first suspect, but that has been checked and it seems to be working fine.

 

I have downloaded all the isuzu manuals and checked for MIL codes (of which there are None). Just had it serviced at Holden hoping they might find something when they connect up the Tech 2, but they also claim no codes were returned. The Oil, Air and Fuel Filter were replaced in the service. After spending an hour trying to diagnose the problem and finding nothing, I asked them to stop as I don't think they have anyone who really knows that type of engine.

 

The only thing they did find was that the Fuel Pump "High Presure Oring" was leaking oil at the seal. They didn't believe that this was the cause, but my understanding of how the engine works using presurized oil to run the injectors I wanted to get another opinion.

 

Any opinions or ideas would most grateful. Does anyone know of a mechanic in the Melbournes north that works on them?

 

Thanks

Peter

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Automatic GearBox on Chevrolet Colorado 2006

April 28, 2015, 11:40 am
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Hi and thank you for the approve me on this site.

I have a Chevrolet Colorado 2006, 30 (4JJ1) Turbo Diesel, Common Rail with automatic gearbox(GM Thailand), I need someone to tell me the part number of the oil filter pan (gearbox). In my country this car is very rare model and I cant find parts. Or If someone can tell me if the parts of my car is the same from Isuzu model.

Thanks 

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Beware the Ryco fuel filter!!!

April 28, 2015, 4:52 pm
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My 1998 Isuzu Wizard 4JX1 started running rough when getting low on fuel. Put some more fuel in it , seemed to get better then problem came back. Feeling like fuel starvation, so pulled the fuel filter and found a nice little puddle of rusty water when it was emptied. Put on a new Ryco filter and pumped some fuel with the primer through then dropped the filter again.... nice clean fuel. Dodgy servo tanks I thought..... problem solved! Put filter back, pumped and pumped on primer, tried starting it..... no joy. Darn. Pumped primer again, tried starting again.... no joy..... just kept trying till the battery went flat! Read lots of stuff on the forum and others about starting problems. Figured I just wasn't pumping the primer long enough and hadn't prefilled the filter. Pulled off the filter denting it with filter wrench, so threw on another Ryco, this time pre filled with diesel, pumped and pumped and pumped and got it to the "hiccup" stage. Time for desperate measures. Sprayed some CRC "Jump Start" into the air cleaner, and it burst into life! Sweet! Took it for a test drive and only got about 3 km up the road before it cut out! DARN!!! Towed it home. I figured that there must be more rubbish in the fuel tank. Set aside a Sunday afternoon to pull the tank and do another filter. This time I bought a Fleetguard from Heavy Diesel Parts and Service (a customer on my run.... I'm a motorcycle postie for DX Mail... a competitor of NZ Post) The Fleetguard was marked as a part for a Hino truck, was half the price of the Ryco from Repco! The boy and I pulled the second Ryco off.... inside was clean diesel. I knew I now wouldn't sleep till I had checked the fuel tank though. So Off that came and about 30 litres of nice clean looking fuel got dumped. Inside of the tank looked sweet as also. The rust I saw must have come from the local Shell's tank not mine! Put about 5 litres of fuel in the tank, installed the Fleetguard filter, gave about half the number of pumps I thought it would need, then tried the starter on the off chance. Blow me down.... she ran! Then I remembered that both Ryco filters had had a drop of fuel on the bottom before I removed them. I reckon that the flat seal on them wasn't sealing enough for the system to maintain pressure. The Fleetguard filter has a rounded o-ring seal rather than a flat one. Dramas weren't over though. It died 1km up the road when heading to the local BP (not the Shell!!!) for more fuel. This time a twenty litre jerry can of diesel and about 15 pumps of the primer got us underway. I guess that 4 litres or so at the bottom of the tank does't get picked up. No drip on the bottom of the new filter. Fingers crossed it's all fixed.
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Reverse light issues

April 28, 2015, 5:16 pm
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G'day guys, I've got an issue with the reverse lights on my RA7 rodeo. They come on in every gear and flick off in nuetral until eventually the fuse blows. I've checked the schematic and have found there is a reverse switch, a neutral switch and a 1st gear switch. I bridged the harness at the neutral switch and the reverse lights come on. I swapped the harness from the reverse switch to the neutral switch and the fuse blows as soon as I put it in first gear. I'm not bothered that the lights don't work but what annoys me is that I can't select 4L without a signal from the neutral switch so it's a pain to go off-road. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this problem.
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clicking sound

April 28, 2015, 8:21 pm
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Hi, i have a 1999 v6 frontera. It has developed a clicking sound which I thought was coming from the rear, but maybe not. I have been suggested it is a CV joint but it is not like any CV noise I have heard. Also it appears to only be there after at least 5 minutes driving. I have replace the front and rear wheel bearings and one thing of note is that there is still a little play in the front left wheel (up and down) but it is not much but definitely there. Is there a way to confirm if it is the CV or tie rod end or could it be something else. One other thing to note is that when going over a gutter there is a bit of a clunck from the front left side if not very gentle.

 

Thanks

Ben

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Turbo noise

April 28, 2015, 8:29 pm
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I den to have two new noises in the turbo.
The first is a short 'burrrrap' sound under initial load the second is a high pitched whine, continuous under load . Last time I heard a change in note in the turbo the impeller snapped in a trip back from the coast. Any ideas what to look for if I pull it down ?
Thanks in advance
John
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viton o rings

April 29, 2015, 5:32 am
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hi guys does  any one know about using Viton o rings for the injector and sleeves have seen some advertised on ebay ?

 

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CAT RPCV works in 4JX1

April 29, 2015, 5:41 pm
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just read on Utube that the guy named "delawarecop" there on YouTube has used a "CAT" RPCV to replace the Isuzu part successfully on a 4JX1.  He wrote "cost me $150 landed and I have another 10 units coming".  If he sends me part numbers i'll update here - i've pm'd him there. I guess he hopes to sell a few, but given the research and experimentation it takes to test these things, fair enough.  Either way, interesting to know that Isuzu took the CAT patent on oil pressure regulated HEUI injectors seriously enough to use the same part.

 

I have no idea if this works, but it seems logical.  I hope he replies to me because for $150 it isn't worth taking apart the valve on my Jack.  

 

This is in no way an endorsement or recommendation. I just read it.  But i'll be following it up myself.  

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new injector suppliers ? -> ramin auto spares ??

April 29, 2015, 6:00 pm
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i just got a quote from ramin auto spares for 4 new injectors from dubai whare house, great price, so wondering if any one here has recently delt with this supplier. USD $1100.00 posted to me in SA.

 

was this week quoted $3500 from local holden dealer, even the sales person had a laugh but said sorry thats the price :)

 

jack thu a glow plug error on tech 2 today, erased it but feel in short time it will return, so will tack then onto any future purchases.

 

any feedback appreciated .

 

 

 

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CLUTCH Replacement TRICKS?

April 30, 2015, 5:01 am
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I have a 1998 Rodeo 2.8L Turbo diesel 4x4 R7, with a clutch just starting to slip.

 

I'll swap it myself, but ask here for anyone's tips, or are there "difficult bits" in the process I need to know about, pref., BEFORE I jack it up and begin?

 

I did my 1978 Holden Gemini, and a Holden "Shuttle" clutch changes myself, but a few years ago...?

 

I can't find a manual on this ute, to give me the lead I need.

 

Any hard bits, or special tools needed, pls?

 

I have a "clutch centering tool" aka "the front of another gearbox mainshaft", gas-axed off by an obliging wrecker in West Heidelberg, which was good for the Gemini.  I suspect it will be good also for the Rodeo?

 

So, can someone confirm that is correct, but also on any other "tricks" or hard bits, special tools, etc., I'd best be pre-warned of...?

 

Like...:  how does the "transfer case" and stuff effect this operation?  Do I have to drop the FWD shaft?  Not that that's hard.  But "time" is against me.  Fore-warned is fore-armed, etc.

 

Perhaps a webpage link, with the process described?

 

(I live alone.  VERY "alone"...)

 

Cheers

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4jx1 wont start please !! help

April 30, 2015, 7:27 am
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hey guys . 4jx1..... just done sleeve o.rings injector o.rings . dropped tank cleaned it and lines . fresh diesel . new diesel filter . new 5w30 semi synthectic oil and oil filters. injector loom cleaned . started was running fine for a hour turned it off went to start bout 2 hours later . bit of a cough then nothing . new glow plugs arrive on tuesday but could it be orps ? also my mate bleed diesel system not me i dont know how im a petrol mech . do i just prime the pump and thats it or is there something else i gota do to bleed it ? please help . reading everything about 4jx1 i dont even want drive it with my kids in it . sounds like a real heap of @$%#. but love the shape so whats the best rolled or deregd truck to buy to rip engine out and drop into mine ? this is my 1st 4x4 diesel and its bumming me out . only owned it for a month . 

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MIL Fault code 16 and 74 help needed.

April 30, 2015, 7:54 am
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After pulling the car apart to clean the intake manifold and replace the glow plugs, I have not been happy with the performance since.

Anyhow, I had the check engine light appear last night and was blowing some white smoke in the mornings until it reached operating temperature. ish.

It was a fair amount of smoke.

I have just checked the fault codes and they are showing fault code 16 and fault code 74.

I know that code 74 is the TPS. Thanks to Serg I have a spare one and will put it on over the weekend.(Unless I bumped it out of position after it was set which is not only possible, but also very likely....)

Fault code 16  is the oil temperature sender - high or low voltage. Can anyone tell me where this is located? I presume its around the intake manifold somewhere.

Does anyone now the part number for this?

I will update as I go as I cant seem to find anything on fault code 16 on the forums or the net so I guess they rarely go.

I also have my doubts about my Chinese turbo as I have a noise from the engine bay now and then but will keep that for another post.

Any one on the Southside or northside of Brisbane with a Tech 2 that I can get to check my TPS? I can drive to you.

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Abs Light on with error code 42 and 43 ?

April 30, 2015, 9:07 am
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Hello i have a 2000 Jackaroo Se auto it has an abs light on Dashboard,scanning machine shows error codes 42 and 43 could anyone help with this.I have been to two different mechanics neither can work out what is causing Abs light to stay on.I can't pass roadworthy with it on

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Clutch problems

April 30, 2015, 9:52 am
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The clutch on my Jackaroo has stopped working. The pedal went down without disengaging the clutch and having pulled the pedal back up it will no longer go down.

Master cylinder has correct level of fluid, no detectable leaks.

I've removed the inspection cover where the slave cylinder goes into the bell housing. The fork (on the outside) is against the pressure plate. It clearly isn't pulling(?) against anything in the centre of the clutch. The fork is pivoting normally on its pivot pin.

Having looked at the workshop manual, it appears the clutch is disengaged by the release bearing pulling the cover plate diaphragm spring. It seems that there is a breakage in whatever connects the release bearing to the diaphragm spring.

Am I on the right track? If so, can this be fixed without taking the pressure plate off - I can't work out what connects the release bearing to the diaphragm spring?

Any help appreciated!!
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Re-programming Remote Keyless

April 30, 2015, 3:35 pm
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Just a summary of some experience dpinkerton and I have had recently on re-programming the keyless entry module. This may save a lot of time and cost when you think the module is faulty. In dpinkerton’s case he bought a car without remote key fobs and had to source new ones on eBay. In my case after 14 years of faithful service the keyless module decided to forget my key-codes.
 
You might think the Isuzu engineer had been hitting the Sake when he devised this but here is the procedure for re-programming the keyless module.
 
  • Make sure you have a new battery in the key.
  • Open the driver’s door and stand beside the car with right hand on key in the ignition and left thumb on door light button. (The little black rubber thing near the door latch).
  • Turn the key to ‘ON’ and back to ‘OFF’ three times.
  • Press and release the door light button two times.
  • Turn the key to ‘ON’ and back to ‘OFF’ three times.
  • Press and release the door light button once.
  • If you have done it correctly the doors will lock and unlock.
  • Press the unlock button on your remote.
  • The doors will lock and unlock.
  • Press the lock button on your remote.
  • The doors will lock and unlock. You are finished.
Repeat for any other keys. The module will hold five codes after which it will drop the oldest one off when you add a new one.
I found it easier to use a spare key in the ignition and have the key I wanted to program sitting on the seat.
The time from first turn of key to last press of door light button is critical. It needs to be no more than around 5 seconds to work.
 
Any questions please ask !
 
Andrew.
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