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4JX1 only running for 10 mins and then stopping

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Hi guys I could do with some help I have had my Holden Jackaroo 2001 Monerey 4JXI for about 2 years now. In the last 6 month I have had the head crack on me with cost me $6000 to fix the first time and the other 2 times was covered under warranty. After they had fixed it for a 3ed time they gave it back to me and only 10 mins later the car stopped on me all of a sudden. The engine just cut out and the power steering locked up and the brakes were hard to push. The mechanic told me it was the Oil rail pressure sensor. Witch Holden had only replaced 18 mouths ago. The mechanic replaced the ORPS with a brand new one. Straight after replacing it the car sounded like ###### and there was no throttle response. you had to keep your foot on the accelerator to keep the engine going if you took your foot off in would die. the car would not move and sometimes you could not get it to even turn over. the mechanic put the old ORPS back in and now it will only run for about 10 mins max. the car runs fine and sounds good. the mechanic told me that they had hooked up my car to there computer and that it had said the ORPS needed replacing. But bear in mind that after I took my car there I have not heard a good thing about them and how dodgy they are.

 

My question is dose anyone know why there is no throttle response after replacing the ORPS. 


Brake fade after first press on brake pedal.

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Hi all!

 

Here are the symptoms...

 

Normal driving > Apply brakes > Braking fine.

 

Re-apply brakes without accelerating  > Massive brake fade as if no vacuum

 

Accelerate again > Apply brakes > Braking fine again

 

While trying to diagnose this (After a heart stopping moment in a local carpark) I found that I could hear a noise which sounds like it's coming from behind the dash? Like a very faint and rapid clicking sound almost like a buzz. But when I give her some throttle the sound goes away > Press the brake pedal the sound comes back.

 

Has anyone had this problem before?

 

Thanks in advance.

Building lists of 4JX1 info and specs

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Hey All

The purpose of this thread is to assemble accurate info on the 4JX1 and make it a first port of call for info. We all have bit and pieces of the puzzle and there are threads but it’s a bit all over the shop – jackablue (many thanks) gave the idea by his bringing some threads together in the sticky in this forum.

So firstly; Take the poll please, its a lot of work to do this idea and we'd like to get some feedback on if you'll all support the project

There is the issue of proprietary info that GMH feels should not be "out there". IMO, silly them for ever releasing the service CD's as an authorised aftermarket purchase in the first place to both private purchasers and repairers. IMO, though, to lock up info on an orphan model that they are de-stocking parts and backup for is petty and alienating. Then there is the fact that Isuzu Trucks, Australia has the (ex-Rodeo) 4JH-1TC in the Sitec 125 NPR trucks that makes their position on information just plain silly. And that’s just one example. But enough whinging.

But we have to respect GMH’s intellectual property. So then, cut and paste from GMH info and formats would be out.
Pete is going to make this new thread a sticky. If anyone has any accurate info, post it. The info will be sorted.

This means:

1) Part numbers, original or aftermarket supplier.
2) Trouble shooting procedures
3) Repair information (torque values…)
4) Fault codes
5) Alternate part number
6) Repair procedures – like DaneH’s contribution on the ORPS procedure (kudos!)

When there are enough entries, it will be assembled into either a blog or articles system that Pete is still hunting up. Further expansion to the 6VE1 and the Jackaroo in general might be the go but we’ve got to start somewhere first.

I’m thinking alphabetical order but any suggestions?

I’m figuring if we don’t look after ourselves, no one else is going to do it for us?

Go Well,
Six Rivers

High pressure oil pump edge filter

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Hi, Does anyone know anything about the Edge Filter that screws into the hpop on one side and onto the high pressure oil pipe on the other?   Mine appears to be leaking oil but I'm reluctant to dismantle it before I know something about it.   Thanks for any help.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 4jx1 oil leak from this nut.jpg

Frontera wheel and tyre sizes

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Hey folks I know this has been hashed out before and for that I apologise in advance. However I have only recently gotten into 4wding and the whole scene. I have a 01 frontera s with factory 15 inch wheels with 235//75 15 tyres. I found a set of later model 16x7 factory rims nice and cheap. Was thinking of 245/70 16 a/t tyres to go on them. What I want to know is is this the correct tyre size I should use to not scrub and God economy and all that jazz. Any help greatly appreciated.

Diesel (?) in coolant

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Poked a hole in the radiator replacing the alternator...

LUCKY!  ... whistle.png  Its time for a new radiator anyhow...

Upon draining the old unit, it appears that I have been using diesel for coolant for a long time. I mean 2/3 of what came out was brown, low viscosity liquid that smells of paint. The green coolant was clearly visible, layered below the fuel (?)

 

Any lesser engine would have died long ago, I just towed a trailer from Perth to Adelaide. There was barely any indication that this was happening. But there were hints:

 

Splash marks in engine bay where coolant had shot out around overflow bottle. I passed that off as an overheat while beach bashing in Perth...

 

Oil weeping out of turbo air intake for a while, turbo boost seemed lower, but I passed that off as engine wear and tear.

 

Engine dripping a little oil, I just took it to be a poor seal on the rocker when I replaced the ORPS. No big dramas, no noticeable change in oil level between 5,000k servicing.

 

So here I am. Plan is to drain fuel tank and look for contamination. Ditto for engine oil.

 

But here is the rub. I love the truck, it has seen me on-my-way from Cairns to Perth to Adelaide, crazy bush bashing adventures every step of the way hairy.png. I've got a new alternator, new radiator and would love to keep her going.

What are the chances that the standard injectors/seals/sleeves/gaskets swap will fix it?

 

Is that my first port of call? She has had all bar the last recall done on her and 290k on the clock... I don't have any time or money to waste..

 

Also, a good mechanic in Adelaide to perform the top end rebuild?

 

Cheers from a Noob. I have saved the Jack from an untimely death 3 times, thanks to this forum, but this one is a bit above me.

 

 

new injector suppliers ? -> ramin auto spares ??

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i just got a quote from ramin auto spares for 4 new injectors from dubai whare house, great price, so wondering if any one here has recently delt with this supplier. USD $1100.00 posted to me in SA.

 

was this week quoted $3500 from local holden dealer, even the sales person had a laugh but said sorry thats the price :)

 

jack thu a glow plug error on tech 2 today, erased it but feel in short time it will return, so will tack then onto any future purchases.

 

any feedback appreciated .

 

 

 

Clutch problems

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The clutch on my Jackaroo has stopped working. The pedal went down without disengaging the clutch and having pulled the pedal back up it will no longer go down.

Master cylinder has correct level of fluid, no detectable leaks.

I've removed the inspection cover where the slave cylinder goes into the bell housing. The fork (on the outside) is against the pressure plate. It clearly isn't pulling(?) against anything in the centre of the clutch. The fork is pivoting normally on its pivot pin.

Having looked at the workshop manual, it appears the clutch is disengaged by the release bearing pulling the cover plate diaphragm spring. It seems that there is a breakage in whatever connects the release bearing to the diaphragm spring.

Am I on the right track? If so, can this be fixed without taking the pressure plate off - I can't work out what connects the release bearing to the diaphragm spring?

Any help appreciated!!

MIL Fault code 16 and 74 help needed.

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After pulling the car apart to clean the intake manifold and replace the glow plugs, I have not been happy with the performance since.

Anyhow, I had the check engine light appear last night and was blowing some white smoke in the mornings until it reached operating temperature. ish.

It was a fair amount of smoke.

I have just checked the fault codes and they are showing fault code 16 and fault code 74.

I know that code 74 is the TPS. Thanks to Serg I have a spare one and will put it on over the weekend.(Unless I bumped it out of position after it was set which is not only possible, but also very likely....)

Fault code 16  is the oil temperature sender - high or low voltage. Can anyone tell me where this is located? I presume its around the intake manifold somewhere.

Does anyone now the part number for this?

I will update as I go as I cant seem to find anything on fault code 16 on the forums or the net so I guess they rarely go.

I also have my doubts about my Chinese turbo as I have a noise from the engine bay now and then but will keep that for another post.

Any one on the Southside or northside of Brisbane with a Tech 2 that I can get to check my TPS? I can drive to you.

Custom Drawers and Triple Battery system

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I know, I know......... drawers have been done to death but have a read anyway, I'm pretty sure you'll pick up some new ideas smile.png

 

There were a few things I wanted to do to set the Jack up for day trips and camping, my wish list looked something like this.

 - dual battery system

 - Alternator charging

 - Solar charging

 - storage drawers

 - 240V power

 - able to sleep onboard (for quick overnighters)

 - maybe build in the portable compressor (because I'm lazy cry.png )

 - do it all on a tight budget 

 

SO............ looking around at what was available........... F@#$ ME........ certainly nothing that I could afford. I put the whole idea on the back burner and decide to just sort out the extra battery and power system.

 

I already had a 100ah AGM in a portable box and a pair of folding solar panels, I just needed to figure out a nice way to fit the battery and some sort of on board charging system. After a fair bit of research on dual battery systems, I realised that it would be better for my AGM battery to live in the back rather than under the hood but the last thing I wanted, was a battery stuck in the back with wires everywhere so I decided that it was time to get creative and entertain that old saying......... "if you want it done properly, then DIY"

 

A picture's worth a thousand words, so I'll let the pictures tell the rest of the story cool.png

 

IMG_1907.jpg

The Black strips on top are Uni Trax 1000 Tie Down Tracks which I rebated into the top surface for a flush finish. Power panel on the right, drawers are different widths to meet my specific needs and that little white thing on the left is a four way remote control switch (its just sticking to the carpet with velcro) currently it is only being used to turn the compressor on/off when I'm crouching at the tyres, but the other three switches may come in handy for lights etc.

 

IMG_1909.jpg

The Power panel.......... (top to bottom) 600W/1200W inverter, Dual USB sockets (left) and Merit socket (right), Dual standard accessory sockets, Solar Panel input (red anderson plug), combination Volt and Amp meter (shows both charge and discharge amps), Dual 50amp anderson plugs (the grey ones). The vertical row of red buttons on the left are all circuit breakers, I couldn't find a nice place to mount a fuse box so I went with breakers which also eliminates the need to carry extra fuses. The black thing next to the grey anderson's is a quick release air line fitting, just plug in the air hose and switch on and off with the remote.

 

IMG_1912.jpg

looking from the other end, with the rear seats folded up so we can see. The compressor is bolted down to the base panel, the black dot just forward of the right side of the compressor plate is one of 5 high tensile countersunk bolts which hold the two boxes down to the original tie down points (the fifth is in the centre child restraint point)

 

IMG_1915.jpg

on the drivers side is where the battery lives, the red knob is the main isolator switch, it switches off everything at the power panel but leaves the charging circuit operational, the red anderson is for linking in an extra battery if needed. (if its cloudy and the portable battery needs power, then it can be linked in for charging off the alternator or it can just be linked in to double the on-board capacity)

 

IMG_1918.jpg

back to the business end, one thing I hate on a day trip is not having somewhere to make lunch or put a cooker, so I made up hinged bench tops for both drawers. Instant table or bench and one less thing that I need to pack. Drawer runners are heavy duty self locking type and yes, I can stand in the drawer when it's fully extended.

 

IMG_1920.jpg

both drawers out with the tables lifted and that's a lot of storage space. Internal measurements - The large drawer is 820x520x240 and the small drawer is 710x340x240. (the small drawer is shorter because the battery is wider than the compressor)

 

IMG_1927.jpg

Under the right side wing. I decided to box in over the wheel arch, it was a bit fiddly shaping around the extra row seat mounts etc, but it meant that I had a nice way to mount the inverter and the Ctek 250S Dual. All the wiring was done below the fill-in panel and incorporated into the unit. (that means that I can undo 5 bolts + 1 earth cable + one power cable and the whole lot can be removed in two pieces in about 10 minutes)

 

IMG_1929.jpg

Under the left wing. thats the problem with doing one side all pretty, you feel compelled to make the other side look nice too logik.png So once again, boxed over the wheel arch but this time I stopped at the end of the arch, leaving a full depth cavity which made a perfect pocket for the first aid kit and still allows full access to the original bottle jack and tools.

 

IMG_1932.jpg

A closer look at the Uni Tax 1000 tie down system. Simple and bloody strong. According to the manufacturer, when tested to destruction, the track fails first at 2000Lb so that gives me a safe working load of over 300Kg per tie down point !!!!!!

 

IMG_1940.jpg

The Portable (campsite) battery, strapped in and linked in for charging and/or added capacity - (Who me...... power hungry.......... Noooooo hysterical.gif )

 

IMG_1922.jpg

Right then....... back to the check list....... what have I forgotten.......

Oh yes, the ability to sleep on-board...... OK, I didn't really forget, this was the part of the requirement that determined the exact height of the storage unit. You see, the rear seats shorten the storage area when they are folded up but if you just fold the backrest down, they are incredibly strong and will hold a lot of load stacked directly on top. Thats where these extra four panels come in to the game. (they store away in the large drawer when not in use.

 

IMG_1923.jpg

with a little bit of planing and some careful routing, keyhole fittings (the kind used for hanging cabinets on walls) do the job of locking the four panels together

 

IMG_1924.jpg

All locked in, it only takes a couple of minutes to convert to a full flat bed and the perfect size for a double mattress. So why did I split the extension panels into four separate panels? and why are they different sizes?

Well firstly, I wanted them to fit in the drawer so that they were always onboard when needed and secondly................

 

IMG_1925.jpg

sometimes, you need an extra seat

 

IMG_1926.jpg

and sometimes you need and extra two seats yes.gif

 

A bit of careful design and now the storage space can be configured to suit simply by removing two of the four extension panels to allow for extra seating.

 

Ok, so that's my DIY storage unit and triple battery system. It was a fun project and yes, I did all the work myself. I hope you have picked up some ideas for your own vehicle or at least enjoyed the post bigemo_harabe_net-117.gif

 

Craig

 

 

2000 Frontera

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Hey guys 

First time posting after trolling for nearly a year. 

Anyway i brought a 2000 Frontera S off of my grandparents when i was 17. They where the second owner of the car the first being an older lady who had it from new.
It was absolutely immaculate when i got it. But its kinda changed now haha. 

IMG_20150329_1128141_zpsqvycdlvi.jpg

 

Anyway when i first got it. It was bog stock and had never seen dirt. That changed pretty quick haha. 

So after saving up for near a year i was finally able to go on the hunt for new parts and some upgrades. 

So first thing i did to it was add a pair of Drift Blade bucket seats as the original seats where shocking. The next thing was fitting them. I used a block of 20mm X 50mm steel and used them to make up some new brackets. 

 

The next thing was to try and find a bull bar. Calling around i ended up finding one( The last one in Aus to be exact) from Arb.

IMG_20150330_080638_zpsdnxn9otc.jpg

I attempted to get some big mud tyres as i had heard i could get away with 31s without a lift. That was not the case they did not fit at all. 

 

So after some research i ended up getting a lift kit from Ome using upgraded front shocks and 80 series rear shocks with Jackaroo heavy duty rear shocks. 

 

Now it was time to get some new wheels. A set of new Federal couragia 265/75/16s where mounted onto black steelies with a positive 20 offset. 

 

And this is how it sits now. 

IMG_20150422_092620_zpsplkksjiw.jpg

2010 3l td 5sp info required.

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HELLO ALL,CAN ANY MEMBER PLEASE GIVE ME THE DIMENSION OF A CLUTCH ALIGN TOOL for the vehicle,  EG.  flywheel pilot bearing  ID.

clutch plate bore ID.thanks in advance,just want to have one ready,got 120000ks up,40% towing a 3 tone van.,john ( am and was diesel fitter).

 

Uprating D Max towing capacity

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I have been informed by an Isuzu employee, that all that is needed to up rate a 2012 model from 3.0 t to 3.5 t is to fit a late model towbar.

Is this correct and if so what are the legal/ compliance implications. ?? 

Reverse light issues

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G'day guys, I've got an issue with the reverse lights on my RA7 rodeo. They come on in every gear and flick off in nuetral until eventually the fuse blows. I've checked the schematic and have found there is a reverse switch, a neutral switch and a 1st gear switch. I bridged the harness at the neutral switch and the reverse lights come on. I swapped the harness from the reverse switch to the neutral switch and the fuse blows as soon as I put it in first gear. I'm not bothered that the lights don't work but what annoys me is that I can't select 4L without a signal from the neutral switch so it's a pain to go off-road. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this problem.

'05 Rodeo TD fueling issues

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Evening all, 

 

Recently bought a 2005 Rodeo with the 4JH1 TC 4x4. Owner had "fuel issues" which I thought would be a good fix for me to do as the vehicle itself has a lot of good extras on it.

 

The fuel was horrid with a LOT of water and other rubbish in it. 

 

So far, the following has been cleaned / replaced:

Tank, sender, lines from the filter back. New filter and water separator installed.

 

I can start it up and let it idle (a tiny bit rough). When revving up, will hesitate and stop accelerating up toward 1500-2000rpm. No acceleration above 2k as engine wants to stop and splutter. All the while a BULK load of white smoke is spewed from the exhaust. Does the same when in gear. 

 

I am keen to get this thing going well so want to start off with the least $$$$ first. What do people think it could be or where to start? Exhaust is free (no cat). Unknown about anything else.

 

Intake pipe has some oil in it and will clean that soon. I was thinking injectors / Injector pump / Sensors would be the only problems left?

 

I have ordered a service manual so waiting for that but guessing that it will not give clear info on how to diagnose this fault.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

 

 


Speed Sensor

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Hi I have a 1997 3.2 v6 Jackaroo, does anyone have or know where I can buy the gearbox speed sensor, I have checked out the electrics at the sensor and all appears ok, am relying on the sat nav for the speed at the mo which is not a good idea. many thanks  Ian Warren

4jx1 wont start please help

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hey guys . 4jx1..... just done sleeve o.rings injector o.rings . dropped tank cleaned it and lines . fresh diesel . new diesel filter . new 5w30 semi synthectic oil and oil filters. injector loom cleaned . started was running fine for a hour turned it off went to start bout 2 hours later . bit of a cough then nothing . new glow plugs arrive on tuesday but could it be orps ? also my mate bleed diesel system not me i dont know how im a petrol mech . do i just prime the pump and thats it or is there something else i gota do to bleed it ? please help . reading everything about 4jx1 i dont even want drive it with my kids in it . sounds like a real heap of @$%#. but love the shape so whats the best rolled or deregd truck to buy to rip engine out and drop into mine ? this is my 1st 4x4 diesel and its bumming me out . only owned it for a month . 

RECALL: RG Colorado and Colorado 7

Who is happy with their 4JX1

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Okay, just out of curiosity, I am interested to see how many owners of the 4JX1, like me, are happy with their unit.

Also have you had major dramas?? By this I mean big $$$ (injectors, RPS, looms, heads etc). If you have can you elabourate??

Just trying to get an indication of how many units are out there vs ones with probs...

ebay UK. new injector ? ...... $428.21 AU

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got this reply from a ebay seller about NEW GENUINE injectors for sale on ebay UK. would you blokes agree with this ? Would these work in my 2002 4JX1. I am building a spare engine from ground up and these would be great if its true.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi.
There are several part numbers for the injectors which are all interchangeable, the current part number being used by Isuzu UK is 8982457530 but this may change to any of the following depending on how much stock is available at point of order.

Other part numbers in use are...
8972630612
8971925963
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