correct location of timing gap on flywheel compared to tdc mark and cpk sensor

My 07 Turbo Diesel Rodeo has been running rough, rattling and generally misbehaving for a little while now and today i took it into a Diesel specialist for him to have a look at. He had a look at said that due to the miss it had and the fact it has done close to 300k klms the injectors would need replacing. 

Fair enough i thought, but the quote of $3500 to do this job stopped me in my tracks. I simply can't afford that right now. 

So i have been looking into getting the injectors and replacing them myself. I have downloaded the service manual and it states that the ECU needs to be coded with the new injector codes, yet i do not have the tools to do this. Can the injectors be replaced without being re-coded or it is imperative that this gets done? 

Cheers

Matt 

trying to get in contact with the blokes that done the supercharger kits for the frontera.. been through the site and messaged people and got no answer.. any one that can help to contact Robboman and who ever else has got a supercharger and info to help... 

Hi, 

I'm looking for any info on the supercharger kit to fit the 6VD1 engine.. some blokes got it done & I would luv to put one on me Frontera that has the same engine.. even if there are any parts still for sale... 

Thanks

G'day all,

I replaced two front tyres on the Jack and moved the front tyres to the back in Nov and a couple of days later noticed a weak oscillating grinding sound from the passenger rear wheel, didn't think much of it and it went away in about a week.

Just recently noticed a loud clank from the same wheel while taking off at a set of lights and noticed a reasonably loud rattling from the wheel, got a mate to drive while I sat in the back just to confirm its indeed the same wheel. Got back home, jacked it up, soun the wheel and not a single squeak. Put it in first gear, took my foot of the clutch, still no sound.

Turns out it only makes the sound while under load; did a bit of research and thought it may be the handbrake shoe, the Jack has a drum hand brake and a disk regular brake.

Jacked up the Jack (pardon the pun) today, took the wheel off, took the drum off looked for signs of wear and found nothing. Made sure the wheel wasn't rubbing against the rotor guard and any other internals.

Put everything back on and went for a quick drive and the sound is still there. Don't know what to look for next so I am reaching out to you blokes for ideas.

here's a vid I took, there is a bit of wind noise but you can clearly hear the sound.

So here's the story,

My parents bought a 2003 jackaroo 5 spd manual with the 4JX1 years ago, not having any clue about what a lemon the engine is..

Anyways, to be honest the car has lasted all these years, minus a few dramas here and there involving the oil pressure sensors and so forth.

Just before Christmas it finally called it quits and died while my younger brother was driving. My mum hit me up to come out to chinchilla to see what I could find wrong with it, seeing as I live in Brisbane working as a third year apprentice mechanic. I told her straight up I didn't really want anything to do with it, knowing all to well the dramas these engines can be and I knew it was outta my league.

Now my brother has bought it off mum and wants to put another engine in it, the car is still in good shape and my bro is earning decent coin out in the mines so he isn't too worried about costs, just chasing advice on what would be a good replacement engine, sticking with diesel obviously. I have herd the 4JB1 is probably the best option but I think my brother wants to stick with a turbo. 

Pretty keen on doing most of the work myself as I've done a few older diesel engine swaps in the past.

Cheers guys!

hi everyone

my engine check light has come on and im getting 2 codes p0131 (o2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 1) and the other is p1171 (fuel system lean during acceleration)  this only come on when driving on a freeway going up hill with and without towing anything.

any help would be good

regards

shane

G'day,

I've had my Frontera for about a year now. When I got the car, it came with 1 key which had a damaged transmitter. So I have always unlocked the doors manually. 

I recently purchased a new key and had it cut, but have been unable to get it to code to the car. However, it will start the car, even if I take the guts of the transmitter out, it still starts the car fine.

So basically I have 2 questions.

1) Do these Frontera's have a built in immobiliser? I was told it did when I bought it, but I'm now thinking not.

2) Below is a picture of my key, which looks different to every other Frontera key I see for sale on ebay etc. Do I even have the correct type of key? This might explain why it won't code for the keyless entry. 

Vehicle details: 99 Frontera SE, B-series LWB, Auto, 3.2 V6

Thanks for your help.

Regards, Rob

I'm interested to find out what other 4JX1 owners are getting from there manual ( or auto ) Jacks............

Please let me even aprox k's per tank or km's / l or l / 100 km's

I think mine has become a bit thirsty of late ???

Thanks, Russell. 

On a couple of recent trips away, the fuel consumption of my 2001 TD Jack has risen quite a bit. Previously I would get 600 km + from a tank full of fuel. (cruising between 95 - 105 km/h, no cruise control) However,on two trips in the past two weeks, I only managed 450 - 500 km from a similar amount of fuel. What consumption do other 4JX1 owners get, & does anyone have any ideas on things to check/fix to help with better fuel economy ???    

The vehicle is in good mechanical condition & is serviced as per the manual. Tyres are 245-75 - 16 at good pressure. Engine is standard but with EGR blocked off. 2&1/2 inch exhaust from turbo. The vehicle still runs well with no noticeable drop in power.

The only change since the increase in fuel consumption is the replacement of the intake TPS as in previous post.

The new ITPS was not set with a Tech 2 / scan gauge, but people more technical / mechanical minded than I said it was not necessary, as long as it was as closely positioned as the old one was. ???  

Any ideas greatly appreciated

Regards, Russell .......   

Does anyone know of an easy / good way of removing the shims for valve adjustment on a 4JX1 motor.

Mine now needs checking / doing after a top end rebuild & would find out if there is a way to do it or the special valve compression tool is always required. If anyone in Adelaide or elsewhere has a tool they would be happy to lend / hire out that would be great.     

Regards,  Russell 

Hello all, where do I start.

I am new to this website and would firstly like to say thanks to a lot of comments/solutions on this forum I managed to get my 3ltr Turbo Diesel Jackaroo on the road and registered. So thank you.

I am just getting in to 4WDing and purchased a Jack diesel 2002 auto unregistered. Fixed a lot of steering issues that prevented me from doing a test drive but got it cheap so what the heck.

Got it home and found this website, resolved the steering issue and a number of others with help from some of you guys and got it registered. Yahoooo.

Ok time to give it a service (this happened the next day I registered the car) changed the oil 5/40 penrite semi synthetic filters and all.

Ok next day changed the fuel filter as I read that they shouldnt be done at the same time.

This is where it went down hill...............

Couldnt prime the filter......read that post with the video of the primer pump and realised that it needed a good dousing in diesel and a few pumps in the diesel to get it to pump, whole lot of crap came out.

I Fitted it and finally started after 2 flat batteries, thought this was a bit excessive but what ever, its running smoothly and starts fine ALL DAY (heard this before? LOL) 

This is where it gets interesting...........

Next morning got up to go to work and hopped in and guess what.... it  would not start..... it finally started chugging along until it got a good idle..... sound like i first started it when i sorted the primer/filter....where did the fuel in the line go overnight?....

Checked the filter for leaks when I got home with a bit more research on this forum and decided to give the pump 10 pumps the next morning before starting the car and before going down the glow plug rout.

Next morning pumped the primer, sure enough it started like a new car 1-2 seconds of cranking... Ok I double checked the primer pump and found that the non return in it was non existent so i replaced it with new toyota hilux unit and primed in seconds and started straight away...test is in the next morning....

Next morning cranked it with no pumping and no luck,  #1^*# me.... OK... back on this forum...again.... took the fuel cap off over night.....bang it started.....ok $19 cap lets test it again.......next morning bang NO START.....next morning after leaving the cap on all night I pumped the primer found I couldt pump it 10 times only 3 because the new pump was working well...... bang it started Grrrrrrrrr.

So now if i take the cap off over night or pump the primer it will start so couldnt be bothered priming so I removed the little blue black 2 way valve near the filler neck that leads to air (no where) and it starts in the mornings

Now it is slowly starting to get worse...Also im starting to notice that the idle is not higher at warm up like most cars there for missing a bit.

Ive gone to so much detail because If some one has this same problem they can go through the same steps I did(thanks to this forum) to try and solve this.

I like my jackaroo and how it performs and drives so would like to fix this issue...

Can any body help.... Kind regard

Hi gents

Has anyone had their motors nearly run but just wont fire up ?  When I cut the white wire (orps) it runs fine but as soon as I replace it she wont run just nearly gets there but wont go . I have replaces the orps , injector seals , tps . I tried to compression test it and broke 3 glow plugs so I took the head off removed the broken ones and fitted it back up  . It has very small crack in the glow plug hole of 3 cylinders but i dont know if that would be causing my problem , as the compression is fine.

When It runs I get 2.7 volts at the white wire (orps) , It doesn't blow any smoke .

Any ideas would be great.

Those of you that have removed the throttle body for cleaning and/or replacement of the ITPS may have noticed a small Allen key bolt on the side of it and wondered what it was there for. I haven't found any mention of it in the workshop manual but after replacing the stepper motor, throttle return spring and a couple of ITPS I have determined that this small bolt is used to set the fully closed position of the throttle blade and it has no effect on the blade position at steps 0..10.

Initially, based on the Tech2 test program, I thought that the stepper motor only moved through eleven positions, i.e. 0..10. I have since discovered that when the engine is being shut down, the ECU commands the stepper motor to go position 11. This I believe is to fully close off the intake and eliminate the shudder which usually occurs when shutting down a diesel engine due to the cylinders being fully charged with air.

It turns out that the stepper motor can never move to position 11 without the throttle blade striking the wall of the throttle body. If this were allowed to happen it would presumably eventually lead to scoring of the throttle body bore and perhaps sticking of the throttle blade. To prevent this from happening the throttle blade movement is limited by the small Allen key bolt.

My suggestion for adjusting the Allen key bolt is to set it to a position where the throttle blade almost touches the throttle body when the throttle blade is pushed fully closed (by hand with no power on the stepper motor). Obviously this must be a more closed position than position 10 of the stepper motor.

Cheers,

JackDriver

Hi guys,

I've had the throttle body off a few times for various reasons and I thought I'd share with you my procedure for calibrating the TPS. As SergAnt and other gurus will tell you it's important that the TPS is calibrated correctly otherwise engine power and fuel consumption can be adversely affected.

This is one of the reasons that I invested in a chinese Tech2. With this baby you can run a throttle position sensor test where you can step through all the throttle positions from 0 through to 10 and display the TPS voltage.

The adjustment procedure that I recommend is as follows:

1. Remove intercooler cover.

2. Loosen the clamps on the pressure hose between the intercooler and the throttle body.

3. Remove the intercooler mounting bolts. No need to remove all four, just the two on the throttle body side will suffice.

4. Remove the pressure hose between the intercooler and the throttle body.

5. Remove the intercooler bracket that is attached to the throttle body.

6. Remove throttle body assembly, take off stepper motor and TPS. Make sure that you don't lose the small section O-ring that seals the TPS to the throttle body.

7. Clean the throttle body with good quality carby cleaner. It's important that you take the stepper motor and TPS off before you use the carby cleaner as it's an aggressive cleaning agent and could easily damage them.

8. After cleaning, and before reinstalling the stepper motor and TPS, ensure that the throttle blade moves freely throughout its entire travel without binding and that the return spring moves the blade back to wide open without hesitation.

9. Clean the O-rings that seal the stepper motor and TPS with a clean lint free rag then mount the stepper motor and TPS back on the throttle body. Nip the mounting screws up just a bit but leave them loose enough so that you can rotate the stepper motor and TPS against the throttle body.

10. Loosen the jam nut on the small allen head screw which determines the maximum blade angle and loosen the screw. This needs to be loosen to ensure that the stepper can move the throttle blade to its maximum extent.

11. While I've found that you can adjust the TPS with the throttle body installed on the manifold, it's much easier to adjust everything with the throttle body connected but just sitting on the manifold as shown in this image

12. Disconnect the glow plug wiring harness as shown. This will reduce battery drain while you adjust the stepper motor and TPS positions.

13. Turn on the ignition without engaging the starter, power up the Tech2, go to the Miscellaneous Test menu and select Throttle Position Motor.

14. Scroll down the data display until you see TPS voltage above the Throttle Position at the bottom of the display.

15. Use the ‘Decrease’ soft key to get the stepper motor to zero steps if it isn’t already there then rotate the TPS until the TPS voltage is as close to 0.50V as you can get. The allowable voltage range is 0.44V to 0.56V.

16. Tighten the TPS mounting screws and ensure that the TPS voltage has not changed.

17. Use the ‘Increase’ soft key to advance the stepper motor to 1 step, then rotate the stepper motor until the TPS voltage is as close to 0.84V as you can get. The allowable voltage range is 0.75V to 0.95V.

18. Go through all the stepper motor positions and record the TPS voltage for each step. The allowable voltage values are in the table below.

19. Repeat step 18 a number of times to see if the TPS voltage remains the same each time. Note that the allowable voltage variation is by +/- 0.02V  between runs.

20. With the stepper motor at step 1, tighten the stepper motor mounting screws and ensure that the TPS voltage doesn't change.

21. Select zero steps, unscrew the allen head screw then push the throttle blade until it contacts the throttle body. Next, screw in the allen head screw until the throttle bade starts to move away from the throttle body. Note the voltage on the Tech2 -  it should be higher than was achieved at 10 steps.

22. Retighten the jam nut and recheck that the TPS voltage at 10 steps has not changed.

23. Power off the Tech2 and turn off the ignition.

24. Disconnect the stepper motor and TPS wiring and reinstall the throttle body using new gaskets.

25. Reconnect the stepper motor and TPS wiring.

26. Reinstall the intercooler bracket that bolts to the throttle body.

27. Reinstall the pressure hose between the intercooler and the throttle body.

28. Tighten the intercooler mounting bolts.

29. Tighten the clamps on the pressure hose between the intercooler and the throttle body.

30. Replace intercooler cover.

31. Reconnect the glow plug wiring.

32. Start the engine and re-run the Throttle Position Motor test on the Tech2 as a final confirmation.

Edit #1: forgot to mention to retighten the stepper motor and TPS mounting screws!

Edit #2: Changed the procedure for adjusting the allen head screw. Since my OP I have observed via the Tech2 that, when shutting down the engine, the ECU commands to stepper motor to step 11, which I presume is to fully close the air intake to gently stop the engine.